London Fashion Week SS27

Following NYFW SS27 optimistic collections, London Fashion Week SS27 came in hot with a sense of romantic realism.

Always the independent little sister of fashion month, London's collections tend to be freer and more personality-focused than the others. With Laura Weir at the helm of the British Fashion Council, a lot of work is being done to revitalise the sometimes overlooked week of the fashion calendar, and it is starting to pay off.

Christopher Kane's return at Mulberry caused a stir, Burberry seemed to let go of some of its restraints - for the better - and independent designers cum household names in themselves, Simone Rocha and Erdem, provided the romantic depth and wonder that continues to exemplify the creativity of the British capital.

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Burberry SS27

Touted as one of Daniel Lee's best, this collection felt lighter. Looks were not as strictly polished as previous collections and perfection was dropped in favour of wrinkles and loose fastenings. The effect was a far more accessible, wearable and also enjoyable season.

Erdem SS27: The Priveleges of Beauty Are Immense

Inspired by the 1920s Paris aerialist, Barbette, who ascended the trapeze as a woman and descended as a man. The collection becomes a 'study in transformation' of Barbette's suspended world. Looks explored traditional notions of masculine and feminine forms: tuxedo jackets were paired with embellished micro shorts, skeletal dresses with diamond-encrusted tulle contrasted with precise tailoring. Fly away collars and draped crystal embellishments that danced between the models' legs exaggerated the feeling of movement as they moved down the runway.

Simone Rocha SS27

While full of Rocha's typical ethereal romanticism, with roses enveloping models' faces and swathes of fabric delicately draped, there was also an alluring intimacy in the more pared-back looks. Bare skin, for one, contributed, but also the undone silk slip dresses and sheer fabrics gave a sense of nonchalant desirability, especially when juxtaposed with the more everyday pieces like the red windbreaker or lavender shirt.

Roksanda SS27

The elegant silhouettes were soft and delicate, creating a stage for the striking prints and colours created by Roksanda herself. Always a master at understated femininity, the looks were strong and beautiful without ever being too pretty. Suits were softened with textural accessories, or an unexpected but welcome pop of light blue gloves in one case, while hot pinks were softened with deep browns or calm pastels.

Mithridate SS27

Inspired by the New Romantics, the collection was a preppy type of flamboyant. Playful with colour but still inescapably cool, the looks paired a casual nonchalance with formal details such as cummerbunds against more fun accents such as pink tulle or flyaway scarves, which felt refreshing and charming.

Mulberry SS27

Christopher Kane's return to LFW was rooted in the house's archives, and the designs of its Bayswater bag itself. References to the flap of the design were interwoven through the collection, from the hemlines of skirts to the fastening of jackets. The colour palette was muted, with a lot of greys and neutrals, peppered with dashes of brighter blues and yellows that felt more youthful.