Milan Fashion Week SS27
Updated: Oct 17
Following New York and London's inspiring and hopeful Fashion Weeks, Milan was a surge of brilliance. Kicking off with Prada's ode to the skirt, the Italian fashion capital gave show after show of impeccable design with the likes of Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Jil Sander drawing the crowds, while Ferragamo offered one of the strongest shows of the season.
Jil Sander MFW SS27 collection collage Bottega Veneta MFW SS27 collection collage Prada MFW SS27 collection collage Tod's MFW SS27 collection collage Fendi MFW SS27 collection collage Max Mara MFW SS27 collection collage Armani MFW SS27 collection collage Ferragamo MFW SS27 collection collage The Attico MFW SS27 collection collage
Jil Sander SS27
Still making a strong case for minimalism, Jil Sander's creative director Simone Bellotti delivered his second collection for the house. In the same location, and with some similar references, the new season developed some of the ideas from his debut. Depicting a worker's reality, outfits came a little untucked or bunched up, like they had been lived (or worked) in. Highlights included layers of cool, neutral palettes, button-down shirts, jackets and some exquisite tailoring - notably a navy skirt suit with just the right fit on the waist, and just the right amount of shirt untucked.
The music choices also seemed to hint at Bellotti's message, with lyrics including ‘we’re tired and so sick today’ and speaking of revolution; it felt like an act of rebellion against the demands and mundanity of corporate life. Shirts often came misbuttoned, as if they had just left the office in a rush. Sharply tailored jackets accentuated the waist, while creased dresses alongside asymmetric hems on coats and skirts, similar to last season, added to the air of quiet disorder in the collection.
Bottega SS27
Louise Trotter's latest collection felt like the first warm day of Spring, a deliberate choice, apparently. Celebrating light and ease, the neutrals and pastels were a refreshing evolution for the house and communicated a more delicate and easy-going persona. Still with the focus on materials and craftsmanship, highlights included an oversized crochet knit and the iconic intrecciato, sometimes subtle, sometimes louder - or fringed, in the case of one iconic navy and white leather trench. Some silhouettes were loose and draped, while others were airy and billowing, like the bubble skirts with delicate looping fringe that playfully swished down the runway.
Tod's SS27
Tod's gave us a lesson in how to approach preppy cool, Italian style. The colour blocking of rich summery tones such as reds, yellows and oranges was softened with softer flowing layers, shirts, and a sporty element to outfits. Created for those on the go, the collection moved swiftly between outerwear and tailoring, and skin-baring bandeau tops, skirts and shorts. The preppy edge connected the different elements, from a deep V-neck two-tone knit to colourful leather tanks; looks were distinctly wearable and easy-going.
Ferragamo SS27
In what was arguably one of Maximillian Davis' finest presentations to date, the SS27 show was full of sultry, sensual glamour. Taking influence from the 1940s where, Davis explained, 'women were bringing back the waist', waists indeed were cinched and shoulders were bold.
Skirt and dress lengths were mostly to the knee which, when paired with the cinched waists and structured shoulders, felt almost old fashioned. Yet the inclusion of latex and leather – glossy, croc and tailored - elevated the looks to feel more daring and sensual than perhaps those in the 40s may have.
The deep, moody aesthetic was generated by rich browns, blacks and greens. Pops of light blue and a gorgeous red, as well as some neutrals stopped the collection feeling gloomy.
Men’s looks were equally as strong as the women’s. Tailored to perfection, the slouchy, nonchalant fits were styled in the same rich colour palette, offering an impeccable yet effortless take on smart casual.
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