Paris Fashion Week SS27

Following a strong fashion month with New York, London and Milan all striving towards a more exuberant and fun style of dressing, Paris Fashion Week only heightened the drama. The French capital brought out all the stops, with big hitters Chanel, Valentino, Miu Miu, as well as showing some memorable points of difference. LVMH winner Julie Kegels kicked off with an exploration of lightness while Materis Fecales continued to question the role of power, both of which drew strong recognition.

• 

  Dries Van Noten SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  The Row SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Celine SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Lanvin SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Givenchy SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Hermes SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Valentino SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Schiaparelli SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Loewe SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Victoria Beckham SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Chanel SS27 PFW collection collage

• 

  Miu Miu SS27 PFW collection collage

Dries Van Noten SS27

Well, well, well, if it isn’t another absolutely sublime Dries Van Noten show. The SS27 collection was an exploration of refined opulence (Julian Klausner described it as ‘ a very sweet way to look at glamour’) with inspiration from Hollywood. Movie posters were reimagined as dresses, extravagant brooches splendid enough to elevate any outfit, and bubble hems that bounced cheerfully alongside sequins dancing down the catwalk. The music also added to the cinema, gently uplifting, for a film introducing the chicest of cities.

Full of summery joy, there were light yellows mixed with rusty orange, pinks over neutrals and powdery blues across oranges, clashing with prints in the way only Dries Van Noten (now under Klausner's direction) can pull off. The drape and flow of the lighter fabrics, relaxed tailoring and styling details - including coats draped over arms, or large patterned or heavily embellished bags - worn by beautiful women as they rushed across the space, felt like a perfect spring’s day.

Skirts were elegant, mostly midi-length, with many pencil skirts adding to the ladylike allure. Layers contrasted in ways that added depth and interest to each look, far from feeling bulky. Cardigans were refined and flattering rather than frumpy, while outerwear such as blazers and jackets were tailored to perfection, cinched at the waist or cropped to accentuate the feminine silhouette.

The Row SS27

The Row is one case of the seeming move away from minimalist-led quiet luxury, but one that has done so while still celebrating its endlessly chic identity. Layers were key to this more undone approach to The Row dressing. Tops crisscrossed, effortlessly draping textured fabrics from lace to fringing, and some shirts and also light knits were in the mix, some paired with structured tailoring, others looser, to create a more relaxed silhouette.

Embracing more bohemian and vintage notes, this collection offered a more relaxed and ethereal approach to dressing. Including Victorian lace doilies, printed silk scarves and even vintage pieces sourced from the esteemed jewellery designer Line Vautrin, the result was a more laid-back version of the (obviusly successful) working woman you expect to be associated with the brand.

Celine SS27

Michael Rider's Celine, a highly sought-after ticket on the Paris Fashion Week circuit, somehow manages to create looks that are as wearable as they are desirable. The opening dress, a beautifully structured black midi dress, set the tone for the collection: ultra stylish but never trying too hard, and never styled too much. There were bursts of colour, from a light blue blazer to blue paisley trousers, or a full bright red outfit and a hot pink tonal look, yet a lot of black and neutrals featured, bringing the focus to the outfit as a whole. Coats and outerwear were prominent, in suedes and leathers, as well as some heavier embellishments, layered beautifully, or draped over an arm.

Quirky styling tricks such as bunched-up waists and tucked-in socks feel achievable, yet still added elevated considerations to otherwise fairly simple looks. Belts with oversized buckles also highlighted this season's focus on the waist. Look after look demonstrated a laid-back style that is so effortlessly cool it is hard to encapsulate, but a joy to see.

Lanvin SS27

Peter Copping of Lanvin delivered an exceptional collection that still seems widely overlooked, similar to Ferragamo during Milan Fashion Week. Structured and elegant, looks were tailored to perfection. The Lanvin woman appears bold and assured, and relishes in the details which came in the form of oversized ribbon details, belt-cinched waists and peplums.

The show's opener, a stunning ivory robe coat, had several iterations throughout: one pinstriped, one gorgeously draped with pinned-up sleeves, and another stunning jacquard print with an oversized belt tie. Several midi dresses and shirting options followed suit, with each nonchalant asymmetric front offering a feeling of sumptuous laid-back glamour. Other fabrics were sheer and draped, while tailoring was focused, highlighting the female form with a seductive power.

Valentino SS27

Presented in the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève library in Paris, Alessandro Michele's fourth Valentino collection was a display of eccentric maximalism, across both men's and women's. A collage of colours from yellows and lilacs, pinks and blues, embellished and floating. Layers were accentuated by voluminous feathers, ruffles and sequins to give the overriding feel of eclectic chintz. There was also a nod to the 80s with velvets, oversized ruffles and strong shoulders, which only added to the energetic flair of the collection.

Inspired by Tsundoku, the Japanese concept of the act of letting books pile up unread, the former Gucci designer spoke to the philosophy of unfilled potential and the important potential of clothes even if they are not worn.